Pentax super A

"
Pentax Super A
Life with the Super A
by Ph Santiago
The Pentax Super A (SuperProgram in the U.S.) was reviewed in the May 1983 issue of
Practical Photography. The technology is thus already fifteen years old as of this
writing, and if you should buy a Super A today, it may have seen fifteen years of
use as well. So why buy one?
For some, the love of metal-bodied SLRs is reason enough. But personally I bought
a used Super A because I have manual focus lenses. That's right, I prefer a manual
focus body when using manual focus lenses. I find the split image and microprism
collar valuable aids for manual focusing. I even prefer the Super A to my PZ-1p when
using manual focus lenses. But even if I fit the PZ-1p with a manual-lens-compatible
focusing screen such as those from Beattie (I don't know how that would affect metering),
the Super A is still as good a backup as any.
So why choose a Super A over other manual bodies? Spec-wise, even when compared against
Pentax's latest manual offering (the ZX-M), the Super A does not lag far behind. In fact,
it may not be inappropriate to say that the Super A is better specified than the ZX-M
(of course I would really prefer an LX, but that's another story). For instance,
the Super A has through-the-lens (TTL) flash control, a feature missing in the ZX-M.
The ZX-M's longest manually-set shutter speed is 2 seconds against 15 seconds in the
Super A (although in Æ or aperture priority, the ZX-M can go as long as 30 seconds,
as against 15 in the Super A). In fairness to the ZX-M, it has several features I find
quite appealing, such as the bar graph meter showing exposure value at Ѕ stop increments
(1 EV increments in the Super A), the viewfinder display you can see in the dark without
having to push a button, the electronic depth-of-field preview, and 2 frames per second
film advance (although the Super A takes a winder or motor drive).
Overall, however, I prefer the Super A over the ZX-M because of the former's TTL flash
control capability. And with proper care and use, there should be a lot of life left in
these little Super As.
Using the Super A
This page is not intended to substitute the manual, although you probably will get by
using the Super A with just reading this page. The Super A is very user friendly and its
operation does not require much elaboration. So I will only attempt to explain the
features of the Super A that, to my opinion, are peculiar or unusual.
Modes. - The Super A can operate on all modes including Program Æ and Shutter Priority
when using lenses with the "A" setting in the aperture ring (KA, KAF, or KAF2 mount lenses).
With K mount lenses, the Super A is limited to Aperture Priority and Manual modes. With the
Mode Dial at "Auto" and the aperture ring at "A", the Super A is in Program Æ Mode.
Set the aperture ring at any setting other than "A" and your on Aperture Priority.
Turn the Mode Dial to "M" and you're on Manual Mode. Turn the aperture ring back to "A"
and your on Shutter Priority.
The mode dial. - In most instances, turning the mode dial requires that the dial button be
depressed at the same time. Thus, to turn the dial from "Auto" to "M" or from "M" to "Auto",
or from "M" to "125x", you must simultaneously depress the dial button. But when the mode dial
is already set to "125x", you can turn it to "B" or back to "M", or when in "B" it can be
turned to "125x", without depressing the dial button. Also, turning the Mode Dial from "L" to
"Auto" does not require depressing the dial button.
Shooting the First frame. - When film is loaded in the Super A, the shutter speed reads 1/1000
when in Auto or Manual mode. In Auto Mode the shutter speed reads 1/1000 regardless of actual
light conditions while in Manual the meter reading does not show. The shutter speed remains at
1/1000 until the film is advanced by three frames, that is, until the frame indicator reads "1".
At first I thought there was something wrong with my Super A, but another body (a Program Plus)
exhibited the same behavior, so this must be a design feature. I also read somewhere that this
was intended to prevent the camera from taking long exposures with the front lens cap still on.
Film advance indicator. - At the back of the body just below the wind lever, you'll find a
small window with two red vertical bars behind it. These vertical red bars move to indicate that
film is actually advancing. Personally I find this feature useless and redundant. The rewind
crank turns when film is advancing. And by lightly touching the rewind crank you'll know even
in total darkness that film is advancing.
Cocked indicator. - A dot appears at the upper right hand corner of the top LCD panel to
indicate that the camera is cocked. The dot is visible even after the camera is turned off
(Mode Dial on "L".)
The self-timer. - The self-timer is activated by pulling in the direction of the arrow
(away from the lens mount) a switch located on the right of the lens mount, just above the
depth-of-field preview lever. A red LED will blink and a beeping will be audible. The shutter
will release after 12 seconds, and the beeping and blinking is faster during the last two seconds.
Pushing the self-timer switch back cancels the self-timer operation and the shutter will not fire.
Flash Exposure Compensation.- The advantage of having TTL flash metering is that one can control
fill flash without bothersome calculations. Want to expose for ambient light with -1 stop fill
flash? Set the mode dial to manual, expose for the background, set the exposure compensation dial
to Ѕx, and fire away. To be sure, this method will not work in absolutely all situations.
But once you get to know your equipment more, percentage hits will be acceptable.
Cleaning the Super A/ Program Plus
Focusing Screen
Following is a step-by-step guide on how to clean the Pentax Super A's focusing screen.
The author
is not a repairman, nor has he received formal instructions on camera maintenance or repair.
The author's knowledge of the subject was derived from observation, his own experimentation
and experience, largely driven by curiosity and the high cost of camera repair. The author has
no knowledge whether the manufacturer built Super As in varying specifications, or whether these
cleaning instructions are applicable to all Super As. That said, the author had performed this
procedure on his own Super A, and the body remains functional to this day. The author had also
seen the same procedure performed by a repairman on a Program Plus.
Dirt in the viewfinder is one of those unavoidable problems inherent with age, like falling hair
and tooth decay in people. Most of the time a blower brush will work well to keep the dirt off.
But when the dirt gets between the prism and the viewfinder, no amount of shaking and blowing will
suffice. That's when you have to remove the focusing screen. Fortunately for Super A owners,
cleaning the focusing screen can be a very simple do-it-yourself project.
When the lens is removed, you will notice two tiny screws above the rapid return mirror just
inside the lens mount (see photo below).
These two screws hold up the trapdoor-like rectangular metal housing containing the focusing screen.
The housing is hinged at its opposite end. Without the two tiny screws, the housing opens downward
like a trapdoor.
Remove these two screws. I use a Stanley #0 Philips-head screwdriver, although a smaller one may
be more appropriate. The two screws are so tiny they're difficult to retrieve or hold with the
fingers. I use my wife's tweezers to hold them.
With a little nudge, the housing will open downward. The focusing screen itself has a metal frame.
Hold the focusing screen by its metal frame using tweezers, and gently pull it out. Note the
orientation of the focusing screen in its housing.
Clean the focusing screen with a blower brush. I prefer to use a mini-vacuum cleaner powered by
four AAs. If the dirt is stubborn you can wipe the focusing screen with lens tissues lightly soaked
in cleaning solution. I prefer to follow this up with a microfiber cloth and some more vacuuming.
The focusing screen is not fragile. I dropped it on a wooden floor and it didn't break. With the
trapdoor-like housing down the underside of the prism is also accessible and may be cleaned in the
same manner if necessary.
To re-install the focusing screen, just pop it in, lift the trapdoor-like housing back up, and
replace the screws. The housing has two leaf springs that keep the focusing screen pressed against
the prism, so there should be a slight downward pressure against the housing. While holding up the
housing, use tweezers to hold the screws by the head and stick them in one at a time. Tighten the
screws.
The viewfinder should now be clean as new.
The Maxell P1-TR Winder
Pentax doesn't make winders for the Super A anymore {B&H only sells a "generic" winder for US$49.95},
so if you want one new the Maxell P1-TR is one option. The winder itself does not bear the "Maxell"
brand, although the name appears on the box. The winder only says "Electronic Power Winder for Pentax".
I believe the winder is also marketed under the name "Samigor". Following are its specifications as
stated in the accompanying manual:
SPECIFICATIONS:
Camera: Fits Pentax ME Super, ME- F, MG, MV-1, Super A (Super Program), Program A (Program Plus),
and P50 (P5) Cameras.
Winding Speed: Approx. 2 frames per second.
Wind Modes: "C" - Continuous sequence or single frame picture, 'S"--Single frame pictures only.
Power Source: 4 AA batteries (Alkaline recommended).
Battery life: Approx. 30 rolls 36-exposure film (Alkaline batteries).
Shutter Speed Range: Auto or Program mode plus all manual speeds except "B".
Wind confirmation LED: Red LED flashes on whenever the shutter is fired and during film advancing.
Power On indication: Green LED lights when power is on.
Automatic Cut-off Circuit: Winding stops automatically at film end.
The P1-TR is inexpensive at around US$50 new. It does have its drawbacks though. One is that the
shutter button does not have a discernible half-press position. The viewfinder display does not
light up when pressure is applied on the shutter button, unless the shutter is actually released.
I'm not sure if this is peculiar to my Super A, but I've tried the winder on a Program Plus with
the same results. So when taking meter readings, I have to half-press the shutter button on the
Super A body itself.
The second drawback is the disconcerting noise. Don't try it during a theatre play or in a
courtroom. The noise more than invites attention.
On the plus side, the P1-TR gives added functionality to the Super A. Besides the
2 frames-per-second film advance, it has a time delay feature that allows the camera to
automatically take photos at intervals of 5s, 10s, 30s, 1 minute, or 5 minutes.
Not even the PZ-1p has this feature. But frankly, I've had the P1-TR for a year and I still
have to find a use for this feature. The P1-TR also comes with a remote cord that plugs at the
back. It can substitute for a cable release, although you can't use it in "bulb".